With Greeste in an Armored vehicle embedded with Ugandan AU troops in Baidoa Somalia |
Mohammed Nagy enters the court room packed with journalist a
few minutes past noon ….he is a large
size man with a weird sense of fashion….
wearing sunglasses in a court room ….but at this moment and time he is the man with the last word.
Mohammed Fahmy, Baher Mohamed and Peter Greeste in white prisoner
uniform hold each other and listen
attentively as the obese judge mumbles
the long awaited verdict in Arabic….they
had already spent 177 days prison together.
In less than a minute the three journalists’ fate had been
sealed by Judge Nagy .
As far as Egyptian authorities were concerned these award winning journalists were “terrorists” !!
In defiant a shocked Peter Greeste the Al Jazeera
correspondent based in Nairobi raises a fist as he was escorted by
the police to start a seven year long jail term in a foreign country. For a man I knew …this was Injustice
………………………………………………………
The best I could catch was a two hour sleep in an air-conditioned
cabin ( I just hate air conditioners) set at 24….sometimes switching it to
27…then back to 23 degrees…the remote control
playing around with the Mogadishu heat outside and the extreme cold from the inside of
this cabin at the African Union Troops camp
A white South African
Communications engineer had a surprise for us the previous night …it was my
birthday , the second in a warzone …and as was the last in 2006 I literally had
a blast…as in Bomb Blast…the same happened on the 5th of May 2013….The South African
had brought a shisha bottle, tobacco and an electric gas cooker to burn the
shisha charcoal…(that was very inventive of the Afrikaner…less hustle)
Relaxing in a Maawis at my AU Base camp cabin |
With CNNs Nima Elbagy at AU base, Mogadishu
With Nima ElBagiy at AU Base Camp |
Ready for assignment at the AU base camp |
We chewed the night away outside our cabins overlooking the
Indian Ocean made beautiful by the moon reflection chatting with the CNN Correspondent Nina Elbagiy and her Kenyan producer Lepaso , my cameraman
Kip and an AU Press guy Omar…the usual chit chat foreign journalists have after
a long day of shooting ( I mean camera shooting), shooting (now I mean gunshots), a bomb blast
and an unforgiving heat of Mogadishu…scripting……voicing…..editing footage and
crossing your fingers as you watch the percentage go up hoping that your story
will make it to the email of some un-appreciating- on- the -rush- to- get- the friday- booze- guy on the desk in Nairobi, without some internet
hitch
The day before had not been a good one for us…we were
frustrated ….the AU command in Kismayu
had denied my crew and CNN the
greenlight to cover that city some 400 km south of Mogadishu Reason?…..two warlords had turned their guns on each other….and there were reports that Kenyan soldiers had been
attacked…unconfirmed casualties …and that Kenya forces were backing one of the
warlords…..not a good PR for KDF in this
city which marks the highlight/ climax of Kenya’s military mission having
lodged out the militant group Alshabaab from their stronghold in a commando
operation in 2013. My target was not Kismayu though….I was hoping to reach
Barawe the Alshabab remaining stronghold upon arrival in Kismayu.
Sandwiched by Nima ElBagiy and Samira |
CNN declined the plan B. I had to say yes. We were to fly by
chopper some 300 kms to Baidoa a city in the agricultural Bay region central Somalia and “scratch for a story”.
Samira would later tell me in confidence
that the KDF were not happy at a facebook status I had posted about a previous
attack in Kismayu….KDF had actually called my bosses back in Nairobi on the
issue. An Alshabaab militant had called to give me details of the
attack….KDF must have been shocked how much info I had gathered about the
Kismayu Airport attack despite been blocked from covering that beautiful
Swahili city in Southern Somalia
..................................................
My sleep was disrupted when we had a bang on our cabin
door….still sleepy from last night’s chew and hubble bubble..….I couldn’t make
it out who had opened the door….it was as early as 7 am but the Mogadishu sun!
waaa! You could have sworn it was noon!
“Yassin up… up…haraka haraka (fast) you have to be at the
airport like right now…the Ugandan Captain
has called says the chopper should be leaving anytime for Baidoa”. That
was Samira
In no time (and no breakfast except for some energy bar
CNN’s Nina had offered me the night before) we had packed our tv equipment and dashed to a blue not new Toyota Hilux Surf waiting for us a
few meters from the cabin with Shariff
the ethnic Somali Ethiopian national driver giving us a wide grin……of course he
knew why the night was long and sleepless for us .”MrYassin chat chat all night ” he said in broken English as he engaged the gear and sped off
In no time we were at the the Abdille Aden International
Airport…..it neighbours the AU military camp the where we were embedded …..we went through the security check and some
confirmation of the passenger manifesto. Among the names on the manifesto was one Peter Greeste, the award winning Aljazeera
correspondent
……………….
“YassinJuma!” an excited John Kinyua the Aljazeera cameraman
shouted as we entered the lounge to wait to be allowed into the chopper
“ Miakamingi (its been many years)” he said as we shook
hands.
“Peter this is YassinJuma. Yassin this is Peter Greeste”
Kinyua introduced me to his correspondent. I had not met Greeste personally but
I knew who he was … I admired his
reports. In journalism experience puts you above the rest…that was evidence in
his reports
So we shook hands with this short Australian
correspondent who seemed a bit edgy at
that time…. He was wearing a beige cap and
wasn’t sitting on the available
lounge couches…sorry actually plastic chairs…it was Somalia….he stood beside
his tv equipment lying on the ground…..his
light blue khaki shirt soaked in sweat that was continually generated by the heat of
Mogadishu…a silver chain stuck on his sweating neck
Greeste seemed like he needed to gather as much info as he
could before we land in Baidoa, our destination. So as we waited to be ushered
in to the United Nations chopper I managed to brief him of what to expect in
Baidoa….a city once referred to as the “city of death”, that I had visited for
close to seven years during the Somalia civil war
“He is the expert on Somalia. You should listen to him” a
smiling Kinyua, the Aljazeera cameraman, told Greeste.
“Yassin am told by someone you have been denied entry into
Kismayu. Too bad. We actually had chartered a plane to Kismayu but we were turned back at the airport ” Kinyua told
me laughing
“Actually my plan was to arrive in Kismayu and hit the road
north to Barawe. Alshabab head of Press
was expecting me in Barawe…. but then again yesterday’s bomb blast ruined our
plans. I told *****(Alshabaab head of press…sorry reader no giving out names here,
professional ethics) that I may have to
postpone the trip” I told Kinyua
Kinyua and I go way
back .We had been travelling to Somalia together since 2004. In many cases no media houses was
willing to risk the lives of their journalists in volatile Somalia and so many times it would be my crew and Kinyua plus his correspondent the
famous Mauritanian Correspondent Mohammed Sufi ( I don’t know if he was famous in other countries but this
man was a household name in Somalia then). They were the Aljazeera Arabic team
that covered the horn of Africa region (there was no Aljazeera English back then)
Mohammed Sufi was not your everyday TV Reporter. This Mauritanian
Arab man was big and had a stature of
some top ranking government official who must have been “eating well” in
whatever government department he was heading . And despite the extreme temperatures
in Somalia he would always wear a suit and a tie
Mohammed Sufi would hardly go out to the field for his
assignments…he would leave all that to his cameraman John Kinyua.
I remember sometime back in 2006 in Jowhar a small
agricultural town in Somalia, some 93 km northwest of Mogadishu. Jowhar was
then the seat of the newly relocated Somali Transitional Government TFG (it had
been operating from Nairobi, Mogadishu had not yet been liberated from the more
than fourteen feared warlords who controlled its districts )
When one arrives in Jowhar the first shock you get is in
realizing that there are serious farming communities among the Somalis. The
area is green with banana plantations, watermelons, spermutto and other fruits, rice, maize, sorghum,
millet. Its not the poster desert dry country we know. Majority are the Somali Bantus a shy marginalized community
descendants of slaves from Tanzania Zagawa and Zaramo tribes. All these seem to
have captured my sense and that of Mohammed Sufi
But he was not ready to accompany me and my cameraman James
Opiyo “Japicha” so he decides I direct the shooting for Aljazeera plus script a short PTC (Piece to Camera) for him that he would do later in Arabic outside the
Governors compound….that was Mohammed Sufi for you.
Later I learnt that
this reporter doubled up as the Mauritanian Ambassador to Djibouti explaining
why he slept at Mohammed Dheere the Governors home along with the late President
Abdullahi Yusuf while we had to spend the night at some small town hotel....... and
why he was always after some tender or deal to do with the Somali government
officials while we sweated our backs looking for stories all day
……………………………………………………………….
The United Nations chopper was airborne and what a lovely
view of Mogadishu it was from above! The city had expanded since the last time
I was here ….new buildings…. new neighbourhoods with iron sheets glittering
under the Somali sun….more construction work , the expansive AU military camp and its long security
fence a couple of white folks( I was shocked by the large number of whites in Mogadishu this time round) seen jogging in the morning ,the Indian Ocean and the white
sandy beaches.
I have been travelling to Mogadishu or Hamaar as the locals call it , in four different phases
of its twenty two years civil war …when it was under the control of the
warlords…when it fell to the Islamic courts….When Ethiopian troops invaded and the
transitional government took over and now when the AU are in control and the unending
headache of Alshabab insurgency
Greeste was sitting opposite me alongside five french speaking UN and AU
officials probably going back to their mission post in Baidoa after some leave…the Russian crew a young man was busy glued to some game on his phone ....I was seated beside my
cameraman Kip and Aljazeera’s KInyua time and again putting on some earphones
to listen to some music for two good reason….I was kind of scared of a chopper
flight since having a chopper crash while on duty in the Kenya Rift Valley
sometime back. Two…we had to kill
time…it was a two hour-three hours flight to Baidoa on a chopper
Greeste seemed relaxed and was listening to some music
too….a book on one hand ..sometime he would doze off…sometime he would put on
his spectacles to read…. . I wouldn’t doze off myself….. time and again i looked down on the landscape that i had traversed for years …taking some photos using my cell phone. From above I managed to
point out Buurhakaba …..some few kilometers from the town back in 2007 I had a terrible motor accident
while travelling on the Somali Prime Minister’s Ali Gedi's motorcade …it had me hospitalized for three months after
three surgeries
The Chopper was now descending
and Baidoa…. green that time of the year…… could be seen
from afar…beyond the city were green thickets and remote villages mostly
controlled by Alshabaab….another remote village a hideout for Abu Mansoor Al Amriki the
rapping American Alshabab who had broken ranks with the leadership and was now a
fugitive…hiding in the remote bushes of Bay region running away from Alshabaab and the
Somali and AU troops
……………….
We had less than two hours for Greeste and I to
cover Baidoa and let the world get a sense of what life was after the Al shabaab were forced
to leave the city ( without a single bullet fired). It was a “tactical retreat” the
militants later said. That’s very little time but Greeste and I were both
experienced in covering war….i had covered the Somali war for seven years …he
was much older than me…an old hand in the game and had covered several wars across the world
including Afghanistan and Iraq for “big” agencies Reuters , BBc and one time
freelance …this was his second or third time in Somalia….but from our
experience…..quick shots….keep rolling the camera ….have a list of exactly what you want but be on standby for anything
unplanned…be aggressive but at the same time avoid being rude to get interviews
Four AU Armored vehicles were waiting to pick us up at the small airport that was just next
to a farm …an airport that had once a plane from Eritrea loaded with weapons
landed to arm the militants….the same airport which back in 2005 we were taken
hostage for hours on by militia loyal to
a local warlord who wasn’t very happy that we were leaving the city without
being “taxed”….among the hostages was the late Somali president Abdullahi Yusuf , two planes
and a delegation of the Somali government…..a Russian plane crew. Me and my cameraman Robert
“Gichboy” Gichira were the only press
“Afande iko sawa….twendewambele….tunafatawapili….tunaelekea mnyumba ya
governor” the Ugandan AU officer in charge of the convoy shouted out the
commands on a radio call inside the armored vehicles we had been ushered in . The instruction language for Uganda military is strictly
Swahili…..despite the fact that majority of Ugandans shun using that language that reached
that country in the mid 1800s through Arabs and Swahili traders and later widely used by the
military (Its an Idd Amin hangover someone told me in Kampala when I wanted to
know why Ugandans have no interest in learning Swahili)
The heat inside the Armored vehicle was baking us …Greeste,
Kip , Kinyua and I were sweating and bumping on each others shoulders as the uncomfortable monster made its turns and brakes and bumps….and that ugly noise it made as we snaked through the bushes on the Baidoa
outskirts and the ruins that invite you to this city reminds you that you are
in a warzone just in case you forgot. We
passed the Ethiopian contingent camp…..the
Burundian camp …and made a sudden stop
in front of a green gate where we found about 20 Ugandan soldiers guarding the
compound …this was the governor’s residence
This was not what Greeste and I had expected …we had very little time and the
formality of meeting the governor and cover what we later learnt was an elders
meeting wasn’t our idea of a meaty warzone story . So for a moment Greeste and
I looked at each other puzzled but unable to speak…it would be rude do speak
…..any cameraman will tell you shooting inside a room, and poor lit to be
precise…in a story related to war just doesn’t add up . What we wanted was to be on the streets of
Baidoa…get some noisy natural sounds of the market and donkey carts , of
traders hawking their goods, old men chit chatting in some open tea kiosk
Seated were about twelve Somali elders from local clan
the Rahaweyn….all wearing an embroidered Muslim cap,a shirt and a maawis(loincloth),
and their beard red with heena to dye the white . The governor was meeting them
and we found ourselves forced to cover the event….just to be polite enough
to be given a greenlight to go shooting in the city center …..the Governor was the last word
here so we had to go by his wishes
While I was getting restless Greeste on the other hand was
very diplomatic and took the initiative at the table to be our spokesman and explained
to the governor and the elders eager to watch themselves on tv later in the
evening what our mission in the city was
The Bay region Governor was in his fourties …. a young man
(but clan equations made him very influential) who had left a comfortable life in the US to help his war ravaged country get back on its feet
The experienced Greeste takes the opportunity to have a one
on one with the Governor and I take a lesson or two from the old guard admiring
his interviewing skills. Before the interview he beckons me aside to ask if
there was anything special I wanted to cover so that we can have an
understanding on what we want and what
we dint ….to save time i.e
“Waryaa….jog …jog !”
( stop stop) the governors militia brandishing their AK 47s shouted at a a
Donkey cart driver on the streets of
Baidoa who passed so close to the governor as he walked the streets to
show us how the city had changed since Alshabaab were ousted . He was surrounded by the UPDF and his militia ..... there was so much tension in the air
enough to let you know that things were not as good as the governor would have wanted
us to believe
We were on the busy streets of Baidoa ….a city that had
changed so much since my last visit . Kinyua was taking shots of Greeste walking with the
governor …I was busy looking for “everyday people” shots but still cautious of the danger i had presented myself to . We were heavily…heavily
surrounded by the governor militia…the Somali national army and the Ugandan
army….Even when Greeste and I stood to make some quick PTC (Reporter Piece to
Camera) at the market ….the soldiers were all over our shots
I was used to quick shots and interviews in dangerous places
under extreme heat carrying heavy tv equipment…I was hoping Greeste and Kinyua
would manage…they tried the best they could ..as for me and Kip we had
disappeared into the market to get some “real people” sound bytes…despite some
warning from the AU that we should not
be out of sight ….understandably the city still had a number of Alshabaab sympathisers and a
foreign journalist presents a good target
Come to think of it now that Greeste is in jail. I never saw
nothing that would have linked this seasoned Aussie journalist to a terror group as the
Egyptian authorities would want us to believe. The Prosecutor must have used
some miracle to have a court convinced with absolutely no evidence presented
before the Cairo court...kind of reminds me of Moses and Harun at an ancient Egyptian palace trying to convince the Pharaoh to let their people go
But it happens to journalists. It happened to me back in
2009 when the Ethiopian government branded me a “Somali terrorist disguise as
reporter” when I reported the unreported struggle of the ethnic Oromo people …a
majority ethnic group that have for years felt marginalised by the minority
Tigreans and Amharas…I spent seven days in the bush with the OLF rebels documenting
their daily life. Today I am a persona non grata in Ethiopia.
I remember in 2010…..I was on a fly 540 stop over to Djibouti in Addis Ababa's Bole International Airport and
the then Deputy Speaker of Kenya Parliament Farah Maalim looked back at me from where he was seated and joked “Yassin what if these people arrest you here…the plane is taking unusually too
long for a stop over.”
For once I thought the delay had everything to do with me.....those who know will tell you dont ever underestimate Ethiopia's spy agency and you must be aware of Ethiopia’s history with journalists…..i thought I was
gonna get arrested by Ethiopian security . In fact it would have been two arrests....on this trip I was accompanied by
the same cameraman who had given the world those exclusive footage of the
ragtag OLF militia…one Eric Okoth. But somehow we arrived in Djibouti without a
hitch
Having contacts with
groups like Alshabaab in search of a story has also made me viewed in
suspicion by authorities in Somalia and
Kenya….always on the watch list with spy agencies luring you with big money talk if you give them some info on some outlawed group or personality….you say no you are branded a
terrorist sympathizer at best ...at worst a terrorist
This is exactly the
situation that Greeste is caged in
……………………………………………………………….
I always assumed Egypt was the big brother of Africa…..we
all looked upon its success…its largest armed forces in the continent….Cairos
infrastructure.... the largest city in Africa with the largest population ..
And of course the thrill of Kenya’s Gor Mahia or AFC leopards playing Zamalek…Zamalek was such a household name in Kenya since my teens…so much that one of my Uncles decided to call his son, my cousin, Zamalek. And if you are as old as this writer you should recall that Gor Mahia player Abbas Khamis Magongo nicknamed “Zamalek”
Oh Egypt mother of Africa (All African folktale will tell you their origin is Misri or Egypt)…is this what you say is a track back to democracy ? Whatever happened to Egypt after the Arab Spring?
………………………………………………………………
The footage of Greeste and his colleagues literally caged in
courtrooms captures the saddest moment in journalism. Journalism is not a
Crime. Free Peter Greeste !! Keep his story alive lest we forget ….he is going
through all these on behalf of all journalists in the world.
Greeste and I in the armored vehicle |
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